7 Basic Freediving Photography Tips

Breath-hold photography is a whole new challenge compared to shooting on scuba.  I have compiled a collection of the best advice I have for those who already have an understanding of underwater photography and post processing, whom may be looking to improve on their results for shooting while freediving.  I am lucky enough to be based in Mexico, where the freediving community is strong and photographic opportunities abundant, in cenotes and open ocean with migratory species such as whale sharks.

1. Safety

As always, safety is paramount, and with freediving photography there are no exceptions. Just because we utilise less equipment doesn't mean there is any less risk. No matter how deep or how long you may be able to freedive without formal training, the understanding and practice you receive in a certification course are invaluable to your safety. Always follow the “one up, one down” rule and have a safety diver that is neither photographer nor model. This is particularly important with photography as we tend to stay at depth longer and we need to understand the potential consequences of longer, deeper breath holds and how to safely recognise our own limits.

2. Training

Taking time to go training with qualified instructors or certified Freediving buddies will help in your photography greatly in the long term. Building comfort gradually at deeper depths, with higher levels of CO2 will directly correspond to how deep and how long you can comfortably stay underwater with your camera, meaning that you will have more time and create more opportunities to get those shots that you desire. 

3. Settings

Styles are subjective and your settings will vary greatly depending on what you are trying to achieve. For me, the priority is that my photos are sharp, in-focus and well exposed. I set my camera to Shutter Priority mode, and select a speed depending on what I am doing that day.  Typically 1/320 will freeze the majority of subjects. Then my exposure around -0.3, again depending on many circumstances, such as available light, or if I’m shooting with the sun or against it. I set ISO to auto and select a minimum and maximum value. This allows your camera to work for you, in my experience Manual mode is unnecessarily complicated while holding your breath.

4. Models

Working with models isn’t the easiest while on land, let alone adding the extra challenge of both of you being underwater. There is only so much that the photographer can do, and the results often largely depend on the comfort and grace of the models. Communication is key, and this responsibility falls largely on the photographer in articulating what they are looking for in the shot, and offering solutions if the results are not coming out as anticipated.  Remember sometimes being in front of the camera is just as difficult as being behind it, and being clear and compassionate are crucial to achieving the shots you want.

5. Ambient light vs Artificial light

I am referring to ambient light as natural light made available to us, such as the sun, and artificial light being light sources we bring down with us, like strobes and video lights. The less equipment you are taking underwater the more manageable it will be. Obviously it is much harder to freedive with a DSLR with strobes than a GoPro. With that in mind, the sun is the largest light source available to this planet and provides different types of light throughout the day.  

In the same location shot at different times of day you can achieve such different colors and feelings based on the sun’s position. Use the sun to help you, shoot with it to light up your subjects or shoot against it to work with shadows; the possibilities are as endless as your creativity. Strobes are excellent for lighting up darker areas and freezing your images, however they mean more to handle underwater. Better to start small and grow your set-up with your needs and comfort level. 

6. Marine life

There are places in this world with reputations for incredible opportunities to capture images of wild life while freediving. Pelagic species that we don’t typically encounter on normal dive sites often require freedive photography due to their speed and habitat in the open ocean.

Whales, dolphins, sharks, mantas, bill fish, bait balls are most commonly photographed freediving. Mexico arguably offers the best opportunities worldwide on both coasts for these types of expeditions. Preparation is key, and being ready to jump at a moments notice  is imperative to your success. 

7.  Equipment

A few equipment considerations that I utilise apart from standard freediving gear depends on what I am shooting. For line-training photography I will use a low-volume freediving mask as the shots may be deeper, but for open ocean I would switch to a larger mask with a wider view, as I am not required to dive as deep as would rather have the larger peripheral vision. A good simple snorkel is of course important, with no purge valves or splash guards that can stick and block your airways. I use long soft carbon fibre fins, allowing for more power with minimal effort and more stability for shooting video.  

Last but maybe most importantly is a camera housing you can trust. Especially when it comes to photographing in the open ocean. Being able to enter the water straight away versus waiting to get passed your camera may be the difference between getting the shot of a lifetime or a long swim in the blue.

Think about buoyancy as well, a weight belt will make your life much easier to duck dive with the camera and allow you to stay at depth. Acrylic domes are much harder to manage underwater than glass because they more positive. 

I hope this helps no matter your level. If you’re interested in taking advantage of some of the photo opportunities or have any other questions please feel free to contact us. Remember that no photo is worth putting yourself in danger, so be safe and be creative!